Thirty sticks of frozen butter. That’s what Cece Krelitz, accomplished Pastry Chef and Instructor at Johnson and Wales University was grating into an ebullient pile of pale yellow lace, as we walked into my friend Vicky’s kitchen. This, in addition to ten bowls of ingredients scattered on every surface, helped elevate the mood and the anticipation for every student in the room. I can’t think of a more perfect overture to a day experienced through a light haze of flour, lubricated gently with Prosecco, and punctuated by new friends and old stories.
Draped in assorted aprons, fresh appetizers within reach, and a plastic scraper poised for action, we began our hands-on demonstration. Which is a good thing because pastry is formidable, and this wasn’t a class for wimps. We reveled in the celebration of food for FIVE hours, putting our shoulders into it, folding cream, lemon and lavender into the lightest of doughs. Not to mention salivating over mounds of cooked bacon, caramelized onions and OH, so much CHEESE! The afternoon included the creation of all kinds of pastry applications including sweet and savory scones, quiches, apple pie and even pop-tarts.
Now, I’m at that point in my cooking where I’m ready to move into the science of true baking. You know, the one where you’re super curious as to why one chef tells you the bowl needs to be warmed, or that the real secret to success is derived from talking to your eggs before breaking them into the batter. I love that everything is so dialed in and geeky. It’s just dang fun.
This class came at the end of two weeks of non-stop cooking for me. The first 7 days spent with my best friend of 30 years, joyfully cooking at the beach. The second 7 days hanging with my 22 year old niece while we drove around in my convertible, got our nails done, and now includes cooking with Cece.
Here, sweat on your brow is part of the fun, even essential to it. That’s why I thought I’d share some lessons I've learned about success with flour, butter, cream and friends:
Don’t be afraid. – I think if there’s one thing that I see emerging from my increased cooking prowess is a sense of rhythm with my food. I don’t panic every time I approach a new recipe. And in the case of pastry, you cannot show fear. Take the action of cutting butter into the dry ingredients. I saw several of our classmates working so hard to make everything so even, so perfect and so uniform. The point is to dance with the ingredients. Coax them and respect them. And you must move quickly so that you don’t melt the butter or overwork the dough. It’s a constant process of both advancing confidently while gathering sensory information at all times. And above all, trust your instincts.
Experiment with flavors. – Because we were schooled in both sweet and savory versions of several dishes, we learned that subtle differences made a huge difference. Each nuance producing a completely different result. Do you want crispy bacon or more chewy? Large or small pieces? Fresh or dried herbs? And all of it is something you can adjust according to your taste. Even though there’s a science to the basic steps, you still have a lot of latitude in your flavors.
Taste as you go. – When I was growing up I don’t EVER remember my mother tasting things as she cooked. And when I asked her, she said that she’d do it every once in awhile at the end, but not during the process. Oh, the fun she missed! Heck, one of the best reasons to chef your way through the day is that you are allowed to dirty every spoon in your drawer as you nibble on everything! And, in all honesty, the only way to begin to understand seasoning, and how to combine textures and flavors, is by tasting. Totally go for it!
Cold, cold, cold, and cold! – Butter is the secret to flakey pastry. And keeping it near the freezing point is the uber secret. In and out of the fridge and freezer during the process is how you keep the dough happy, and the finished product a guaranteed success.
Mistakes are allowed! – Yes, this is the reason for the title of my blog. Which is most appropriate because of one awesome blunder. And that is, for all of the experience and prowess of our two hosts, Cece and Nancy, they suddenly realized they had assembled our scones using the mixture that did NOT have leavening. What were we cooking then? Little floured bricks which would never rise. Sure, they would be excellent weapons, but that’s another class. And so, as she moved to embrace the boo-boo and remake the dough, she taught us the best lesson of the day: “It’s not how you react to failure, it’s how you recover from it that makes all the difference in your career.” I literally couldn’t write her words down quickly enough.
Dough, like life, rises, and dough falls, but you just need to grab another bowl and start again. And by all means, be sure and chuckle slightly under your breath as you thank the heavens for what cooking teaches us: Love and dough are really the only two things you need to survive.
Watch the video and enjoy!!!
I remember the small town carnivals that came to town when I was a child. When all the rides were assembled, the dry, dusty alfalfa field, barren that morning was, by nightfall, transformed into an other-wordly place. Glowing orbs, painted carriages that swung through the air, and the food trailers that lit up like UFO's were mesmerizing. Sure the ground was muddy, and the food was trashy but it was fantastic. And the fare included that mascot of all county fairs, the caramel apple on a stick. Although some of those apples were covered in that bright red candy, others were spared the paper skewer and presented as simply sliced up so you could dip them in cheese or marshmallow.
This is the food you eat before being inverted in a cage suspended above the crowds and twirled around at lightning speeds? YES IT IS. It was a race to a sugar coma, and we loved it.
Would you believe it if I told you there are more than 7,000 varieties of apples in the world? It's a staggering number, but a testament to the iconic fruit that America LOVES. Anything that you can consume from your palm, eat sloppily without apologizing, and when you're done feel ABSOLUTELY NO guilt for scarfing it, is a good thing. Really good. Plus, unless you're fond of seeing your Doctor a lot, (Not withstanding those of you married to a physician, we're sure you like seeing your doctor all the time,) the ol' apple promises to keep 'em away if you eat one once a day.
Now remember, I don't know how to do anything plain. I like to take something familiar and amp it up a bit. Which is why I decided to combine my love of billowy, sweet scones with apples, cheese and caramel. When I took a bite of my little squares, I expected to get a distinct snap of the apple acidity, and the familiar sharpness of the cheddar cheese. But a new creature was born and it was addictive. And then, when covered in home made caramel, well, I felt a little other-worldly myself and there wasn't a Tilt-A-Whirl in sight.
The good news is scones are super easy to make. So unless you LIKE to see your doctor and shell out a co-pay, you need to start your day with a GRANNY SMITH APPLE AND CHEDDAR CHEESE SCONE WITH HOMEMADE CARAMEL.
(As a note, the caramel sauce I made was easy and it is a nod to The Pioneer Woman's recipe. Take 1 C packed light brown sugar and put it in a saucepan with half a stick of butter or 1/4 C. Let it slowly melt. Then add 1/2 C heavy cream and a dash of salt. Cook, whisking constantly, (it will reach a boil pretty quickly) on medium heat for about 3-4 minutes. Take off the stove, add 1 t good vanilla extract, whisk again and let cool. The PW said to cook for 5-7 minutes but when I did that last time, I about had caramel I could wrap in plastic. Too hard. Try only 3-4 minutes for the best sauce!)
Watch my short video about getting comfy in the kitchen.
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Meet the Cook...
My name is Camine Pappas and I love to create beautiful and delicious food that anyone can make. My signature style centers around a love for combining things in a way you might not expect as I work to find a hidden combination of colors, textures and flavors from the things that are in my pantry and/or easy to obtain.